I recently bought a couple of Vargo titanium tent pegs/stakes, with the intent to try using them as marlinspikes for knot work, and they've both worked out alright so far, without bending. Using some 1.4mm cord, I tied a pineapple knot on at the top of the Vargo Ultralight peg, slid on a pewter Kiko Tiki bead, and then tied a single pass long 4 bight Turk's head knot under the bead.
I'd already tied and tried several other knots on the stake/peg, using smaller 0.9mm cord for a Hansen knot, then a headhunter knot, and two-bight and four bight TH knots before finally stopping with the knots shown. My fingers are cramped up and done for the day, and trying to stay focused on smaller work takes a toll on my eyes too, lol.
The other larger titanium tent stake/peg, shown with a trio of 5 lead 4 bight Turk's head knots - two single pass knots on either side of a doubled knot on a wooden bead, is about 5mm thick compared to the thinner 4mm Ultralight version, so the only beads I have that fit on it are wooden ones. I added a short paracord pull loop with an extended two-strand Matthew Walker knot, to hang it from a peg on a work bench, if I actually had a work bench. I might try a globe knot around one of those beads, using some leftover 3/32" leather lace.
I also made a simple paracord neck/ID badge lanyard with a scrap length of electric blue cord I had leftover, using a Leatherman Carabiner for the attachment, with a cat's paw knot, a few two-strand wall knots, adding a 'Mind' skull bead, and finished with a safety break-away clasp.I'm wondering if I can get some glow-in-the-dark epoxy mix into the eye sockets of the tiny little skulls on the larger one, something for later...
Stormdrane,
ReplyDeleteI follow Your work and try to learn and practice from Your (and other sources) examples and guides.
What amazes me every time is how You manage to "convert" those simple things like stick (OK it is titanium, but on the end just a stick)to work of art.
I wish that Your ayes, hands and inspiration never leave You.
Kind regards,
First of I just had to mention that Neven that was a great comment I couldn't agree more. Stormdrane is the one that got me into paracord work and I've gotten into a lot more things dealing with it. So I completely agree with you.
ReplyDeleteNow for the second part. Stormdrane, I think you would potentially enjoy something over at budk.com here's the link:
http://www.budk.com/product/11-Function-Credit-Card-Survival-Tool/156296.uts
P.S. I'm sure they've got some other things you'll get into as well. I know I've personally used some paracord to rewrap things they've sent me, and just to adjust things. Much love for your art work!
Morning Stormdrane,I have been on the hunt for mini blind cord but my brain is not working.What material type do I want to get .09 in nylon,polyester?Or how would it be listed? And I have been following JD, Vol.2 that I recently purchased seeing it on your site and was looking for some 450 cord to see what the difference.Holly cow the stuff I found was from China (and that is not happening USA or nothing) or the stuff here in the states was $6.95 per 100 and $10.58 to ship?? Is there all that much difference?Thanks SD have a good one Scot
ReplyDelete@Scot, I tend to use mostly nylon cord, as polyester content tends to shrink up a bit, depending on the cord, so if tying something like bracelets or pet collars, pre-shrinking may be needed to be done first.
ReplyDeleteIf a cord listing doesn't say whether it is nylon or polyester, you can email or call the manufacturer/distributor/vendor and ask.
I believe JD gets his 450 type paracord from vtarmynavy.com. For decorative knot work it should be fine.
For projects where strength/durability/utility/outdoors survival uses are wanted, I'd stick with mil-spec/commercial 550 paracord.
want glow in the dark paint? use glow-on paint for gun sights. it's a UV reactive glow in the dark paint that comes in plenty of colors.
ReplyDeleteHi Stormdrane,
ReplyDeleteIf you haven't tried to get paint/epoxy in the skull eyesockets yet you might try a trick I learned many years ago as a teenager when putting plastic models together.
Use wooden toothpicks instead of brushes, it makes fine, small application so much easier.
If you already know this, well, I tried.
I love your work, it is easy to follow and very professional looking while remaining unique.
Happy Sunday Stormdrane,Really like that hansen knot so going to Mr.Brewers tutorial I understand everything except the start? Looking at it it appears that the working end is going under itself where it is starting the second pass,then going over the standing end then over one and then splitting the pair? I have been trying for awhile and not seeing the O1 U1 then over the standing end ? I love his tutorials but this one has me stumped.You have a great day.Scot
ReplyDelete@Scot, After you double the starting knot(5L4B), at the last pass you go under that double start cord, over the standing end, over the next bight splitting the pairs in the pattern, U2 O2 U2 O2 U1, then down O1 U2 O2 U2 O2 U1, etc. Hope that makes sense...
ReplyDelete