Glow-in-the-dark Half Hitched Pouch

This glow-in-the-dark pouch is made with CoolGlowStuff.com 3/32" glow cord. I used about 16 feet of cord, 1 ft for the cinch cord with cord lock and 15 feet for the pouch using half hitching/needle hitching for the knotwork.

I tied the pouch around the Gerber Infinity Ultra LED flashlight with a #1 sized S-BINER, but it would also fit something like a similarly sized pocket knife.

Whatever you tie it around needs to be slightly larger than the object you'll store in it when used for a pouch. This makes it easier to insert/remove the object. Different sized sections of PVC pipe make good mandrels for knot work. Paracord is great for pouches too, but on a smaller object like the flashlight, it might seem overly thick for what's inside(YMMV).

Paracord Lantern Pouch/Can Koozie

I made this paracord pouch using cow hitching, to fit my River Rock 3AA LED lantern. The pouch also works well as a can koozie.

I used up what I had left of my green paracord, and can only guess that the amount used was somewhere between 30 to 40 feet. A 2 foot length for the cord lock/cinch section and the rest is a single strand tied onto the cinch and cow hitched around to the bottom.

I was almost out of cord, so I used half hitching for the bottom section, which also lets the can koozie sit flat.

I've added a photo collage for starting 'cow hitching'. The last couple of photos are a couple of different starting methods. One is with your cord tied to itself, for a more permanent covering of something like a bottle, and the other is using a separate piece of cord as a drawstring/cinch strap with a cord lock, and then tie onto that piece of cord and start hitching. When you get to working around the bottom of a project, you can switch to half hitching to finish, and sew, melt, or super glue the end strand in place. Just click on the image for a larger version.

*Added to this blog post is another example made with 40 feet of paracord, tied onto the drawstring/cinch cord, that will make a pouch large enough to stretch over a 0.5 liter water bottle, still fits the lantern, and a soda/beer can too .

Lanyard Snap Shackle

I bought a couple of these black painted bronze snap shackles from MIL-SPEC MONKEY, to use with paracord lanyards.

They do cost a bit more than the usual cheaper swivel clips and carabiners I often use, but it's a neat, well built accessory for some paracord work.

I added one to a lanyard made like the 'Paracord Lanyard Project'. The snap shackle has a 1" slot, so I looped the cord ends around the shackle a couple of extra times to fill the slot. The lanyard is also slightly longer than the tutorial version, with a couple extra feet of paracord, so this one has just over 12 total feet of 550 paracord in it.

The working ends are pulled under the last couple of knots on each side with hemostats, instead of melting the ends, with the excess then trimmed and tucked to finish.

I used some black 1.4mm cord for the shackle ring pull, which opens the shackle. I don't know how long the black paint will last, but I guess scratches could be touched up with a Sharpie. I imagine the bronze would still look nice over time as the painted finish eventually wears off.

Chain Sinnet Paracord Bracelet Tutorial by Ken Cardwell

A fellow knot tying friend, Ken Cardwell, made a 2 part YouTube video tutorial, showing how to tie a chain sinnet paracord bracelet.

Twisted/Spiral Paracord Cross

The twisted/spiral pattern is made by tying the half knots the same way each time instead of alternating them like you would for the cobra stitch/Solomon bar/Portuguese sinnet.

I used about 5 feet of gutted 550 paracord for the vertical section with the loop, and about 3.5 feet for the horizontal arms of the cross.

I left enough slack in the vertical section where I wanted to pull the shorter length through, to finish with tying the arm section.

I tied it with the simplest method of making a vertical then a horizontal section, but you could also make it by tying two separate arm sections first, then tie the top and bottom sections by pairing off the strands, or vice versa, starting with top and bottom sections of the cross first.

The Swiss Army knife is a Victorinox Ranger.



I've added a photo collage for tying the twisted/spiral cobra stitch/Solomon bar/Portuguese sinnet. You start by finding the center of your length of cord, come down to the length you want, then start tying with the working ends.

Left cord under the core strands, over the right cord. Right cord goes under the left, over the core strands and through the left side loop, and tighten it up. Continue the same process again, starting with the left cord under the core.... You do not alternate sides as is done with the cobra stitch/Solomon bar/Portuguese sinnet.

Every two or three knots, make sure the core strands don't get twisted as you go, straighten them out if needed, and push the tied knots up against the previous ones for a tighter spiral.

When you have the length you want, you can trim and melt the ends in place, or use hemostats/forceps to pull the working ends through a previous knot or two and then trim the excess.