Friday, October 23, 2015

More SurvivorCord...

I still had some of the SurvivorCord that Titan had sent me left over, shown in a previous blog post, so I added a 22 foot length to an edc boonie hat, tied in a fast deploy chain sinnet.

After tying the chain sinnet around the boonie, I still had a couple of feet of doubled up cord, so I just wrapped it around the crown of the boonie hat and tucked the overhand knot at the end up under a branch loop in the back. How much cord you actually use will depend on your hat size and how tight or loose you tie the chain sinnet, but as mentioned in the annotations of my video tutorial, don't make it too tight or it will affect the fit of the hat.

The overhand knot at the end of the cord for the hatband is used simply for the reason that it's quick to untie should the cord be needed in a hurry and removed from the boonie, and being tucked out of sight, a more decorative knot would be wasted.

I removed the simple paracord loop zipper pull from my VooDoo Tactical Enlarged BDU Wallet and replaced it with a square crown sinnet with wall knots, using a couple of gutted strands of the SurvivorCord.


Auburn Tigers gear at Fanatics.com

Monday, October 12, 2015

Revisiting Globe Knots

It's been a long time since I tied any globe knots, and recently trying to get one done has led to a bit of frustration with getting the correct core size for the knot I was tying with paracord.

A lot of trial and error is involved sometimes when you're just eyeballing it and making a guesstimate, that leads to tying/untying and trying again until you're satisfied, not having gaps with too large a core, or bunched up and uneven with too small of one.  I ended up using a glass marble for this one.

Shown in my photo is a paracord wrist lanyard with a single pass of a globe knot, a two-strand stopper knot, and a couple of Two-strand wall knots to finish after running the cord through a small split ring with a clip.  The clip makes it easier for attaching/detaching the lanyard, which you might want if you use the screwdrivers on a pocket knife sometimes and a lanyard might get in the way, or want to switch the lanyard over to another knife, multitool, flashlight, keychain, or whatnot.

A knot tying friend reminded me that there's a 'globe knot calculator' out there (meant to be used with the Globe Knot Cookbook, that I don't have but have heard good reviews), and I'm sure I'd bookmarked it when it was mentioned on the old KHWW forums, but the site is gone and I've gone through a couple of hard disk crashes since then, losing a lot of good references with them that I know I should  have saved elsewhere than just on my computer.


I couple of other globe knots ya'll might like to try are an 18 facet and 45 facet knot, both originally shared on the French IGKT forums, but the original links I had for them in previous blog posts went dead, probably due to forum upgrades, but another knot tyer sent me the alternative links which thankfully still work.

The SAK(Swiss Army Knife) shown is a Victorinox Yeoman MS that I got from a friend, SwissBianco, at the Blade Show a few months ago, and the flashlight is a Sunwayman R10R that's been sitting in the gadget drawer since I bought it and hasn't seen the light of day in a while, lol.  The marlinspike in the second pic is a Knotter's Tool that I received from the JigProShop, handy for tightening/loosening knots and storing lacing needles inside as well.

Thursday, October 01, 2015

Titan Paracord SurvivorCord Nalgene Bottle Wrap

I continued with tying with the SurvivorCord that Titan sent me, shown in yesterday's blog post, around my Nalgene bottle.

I tied alternating 3 lead 8 bight Turk's head knots, doubled, and a few coiled wraps between each with a 50 foot section of the cord that I started with.  I would have first wrapped the bottle with a bit of extreme tape if I had any, but the wrap does feel secure as it's currently tied, and offers a good grip for my fingers with the slightly raised knots and coiled grooves between them.

There was a lot of time spent continually untwisting the cord and pushing the slack of the outer sheath over the core strands down towards the working end, even though the knots are simple and chosen for not having a lot of  sharper angles to keep from kinking the cord up, which happened anyway with all the twists I had to deal with.  Even on a simple looking project like this one my hands did bug me a bit and I had to stop a few times with finger cramps, nothing to do when they lock up but say, 'Ow!' (think charlie horse in your hand), lol.

Although I like the feel and grip of this particular pattern, I'd suggest just doing a simple common whipping around a Nalgene or other type water bottle for faster deployment if the cord is needed when the zombie apocalypse starts, and you'll end up having fewer kinks in the copper strand, very thin piece that it is, as well as fewer twists/coiling in the fishing line too, when the you need to catch some crappie, bass, or catfish to fry up in a campfire for dinner.

You can stuff a lot of survival gear inside a sturdy protective paracord wrapped Nalgene water bottle, including fishing tackle, medication, multitool, sewing kit, magnifier, map, pen/notepad, pocket knife, flashlight, emergency blanket, whistle, bandana, first aid supplies, poncho/garbage bag, water purification tablets, lighter/flint rod, cell phone, spare batteries, etc., so forth, and so on, toss it in an edc backpack, glove box, hidden/buried supply/geocache spot, for yourself or fix one up for a gift to friends/family that like to 'Be Prepared'.

I did have a noticeable stretching of the outer sheath over the core strands, so much so that by the time I got to where I finished the bottle wrap, using a little over 41 of the 50 foot strand, there was a couple of feet more of outer sheath than core strands left in the trimmed scrap end, 6.5 feet of core inside 8.5 feet of kernmantle/outer sheath.


There were also a couple of sections in the Turk's head knots where there is more slack, like a bubble that develops when tightening the knots up, which can happen sometimes no matter the brand of paracord when the outer sheath is a bit loose around the core strands.  You can untie and try to work out the problem area or leave it like I did as a reminder that nothing's perfect, it happens, this one is mine, not made for someone else where I sometimes find myself tying/untying a project several times to get it just right, hehehe.

I do like the SurvivorCord with the extras inside for potential survival uses, but I'd stick with simpler bottle/knife/tool handle wraps/grips that do not get too complicated with lots of twists and bends which may affect the copper strand and fishing line elements inside.  At least one of the other reviews I've seen on the cord also mention how thin the copper strand is, which may need braiding up first to make it larger for making snares.  I was thinking of doing some Turk's head knots around some zipper pull sections or lanyards, but the copper strand is tiny(30 gauge) almost thread like, and I did try wrapping it around a crown sinnet like thread on a spool, but didn't care for the outcome on that. So, I may instead try using the waxed jute, which is slightly thicker, for something like that...

As mentioned, I may try some other things with the remaining cord that I have, maybe a quick deploy hatband, braided wallet/keychain lanyard and whatnot.  Hardcore survivalist, campers, backpackers, and others that have the know how/knowledge to use the extra components of the cord could certainly appreciate having it available even with the more than double cost compared to commercial paracord, but for regular outdoorsmen, hobbyist and crafters, the cheaper stuff will do, and you end up with more color options too.

The particular hank of SurvivorCord that I received had a bit of a cosmetic issue with one of the 32? some odd strands of the braided outer sheath being turned/twisted at an odd angle compared with the rest of the strands during production, so that it looks like there are random 'pulls' throughout the cord, but it's just the way the light catches those strands and not I think any problem with its strength/durability to affect performance.  The photo in the previous blog post of the hank of paracord straight out of the package and on the digital scale for weighing shows those strands which look like specks in the picture.  Doesn't bother me, but I know there are those out there that would complain, like a certain color of paracord they ordered doesn't exactly match their socks, so they'll take issue with it and send it back, lol...